Is jewellery art?
I was always convinced that it is. Even though there are many galleries in our country that have no room for jewellery. The Milano Gallery was established 30 years ago, when „Polish silver” was at its peak and was available in practically every art gallery. Silver jewellery by Polish artists and designers was also an important part of my offer. A lot has changed since ‘89 – today, few galleries offer jewellery at all. Yet at mine, it still is and always will be – especially now that different fields of art intermingle so strongly. A good project, interesting design – that is art, and since I show contemporary art, contemporary jewellery cannot be missing. By showing good artists and interesting designs, I try to prove that jewellery is art.
How successful is this?
It varies... I still quite often have to spend a long time persuading people and explaining why it is worth buying artisan jewellery and why this particular design rather than another. I teach my clients how to choose jewellery depending on their outfit, skin tone, hairstyle and even personality. Preferences vary greatly – from subtle, minimalist forms to avant-garde, large, colourful and eye-catching ones. The latter arouse the most apprehension, but I also know they bring the most satisfaction – especially when a client gets positive feedback „out on the town” and comes back for more of a given creator's bold designs. Men are the hardest to convince, because they are most afraid of making a faux pas – so they stick to safe classics.
There is definitely less classic jewellery in Milan than avant-garde.
This is a conscious decision, because I want the jewellery to match the art presented in the gallery interiors. A bit like in foreign museum shops and galleries, where the focus is on the avant-garde and the best, current designs. By design, I avoid classics, and if I do decide on them, they must be at a high, sophisticated level.
How large is the group of designers you work with?
I am in contact with around 50 creators, and have regular, lively collaboration with about 30 of them. This collaboration goes in various ways, because these are difficult times for jewellery artists: competition from chain stores is very high, and there is a huge variety of not always good quality jewellery in online stores, which discourages customers from looking for truly innovative and unique ornaments. It is hard for them to break through, especially since customers often do not know what is truly good and valuable, so they usually decide on a safe purchase – what is trendy. The effect is that we very often see well-dressed people wearing jewellery that is unsuited – both to them and to their outfit. A good example of this is celebrities: wearing clothes from leading designers and high-street jewellery.
Why is it worth buying designer jewellery?
Can I say what I value designer jewellery for? Because it speaks for me. Much like my outfit, hairstyle, footwear or glasses. I can't imagine dressing well and putting on bland jewellery with it. Everything has to be cohesive. I dress in black, but my earrings have to be large, colourful, well-designed and eye-catching. That's me, jewellery helps create my individuality.
Milano is probably the last art gallery that organises competitions for jewellery makers.
This year's competition Collection was the first in 5 years. In total I organised 23 jewellery exhibitions, including 17 competitive ones. Their titles – Brooch, Offshore wind, Complete, Colour approval, Perfect jewellery, Bullseye, Breaking the waves, Ay ay ay, Ho ho hi, Departures-arrivals, Award-winning jewellery, The result of creative action, Full Exclusive, Construction of delight, To drive you crazy, You'll look lovely in this darling, Simply design, 25 years i Dizziness – to a large extent, they capture what I expect from authors – above all, imagination and creative thinking. The world is changing, new materials and technologies are emerging – it was through the competitions and their themes that I wanted to encourage participants to tackle the new, to create avant-garde forms in keeping with the spirit of the times. Today, contemporary jewellery is no stranger to resins, plastic, fibreglass and carbon fibre, 3D printing, laser cutting... This is precisely the kind of jewellery I want to promote in the Milano Gallery – and not the kind that the world forces upon us.
How do you envisage the „jewellery-like” future of the Gallery?
My dream is to focus – in accordance with the „less is more” principle – on selected, top projects from the best designers. For them to be unique pieces, true art. I also hope that new artists with open minds and fresh ideas will make their way into my gallery. Mixing the old and new guard of creators is always inspiring, as both can learn a lot from one another.
I am grateful to artists for being here and creating exceptional works. Over these 30 years, I have organised over 200 exhibitions – both in Poland and abroad. This latest one, „Collection”, is another stage in motivating creators and bringing inspiring people together – also to highlight good mutual relations. We stick together and form one big family. And I thank everyone very much for all these good emotions of the last three decades.