When receiving the Grand Prix from the Minister of Development, you said that you had been waiting for this award.
It's true, I even waited a lot. I took part in the Mercurius Gedanensis competition (now the Amberif Selection - editor's note) many times, but I never managed to win it, although I really tried hard - sometimes I even had the impression that I tried harder than others, but unfortunately the jury somehow did not notice this... Today I think it was a good thing that I had to wait so long for it - over the years I have learnt a lot, I have more knowledge and a better workshop. I have also learned patience... (laughs). Today I know that you just have to do your own thing - especially if you get as much satisfaction out of it as I do. And that allows you to satisfy your ambitions.
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„You've been doing your own thing” for 21 years now - we're talking on exactly the 21st anniversary of the founding of NAC Amber, which has had above-average design and quality ambitions from the start.
Today, my goal is to match the world's top brands, which I admire for their goldsmithing craftsmanship. Such number 1 for me is Boucheron, whom I admire for their excellence and technical solutions that delight. I also value brands such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Chopard, Faberge and Chaumet. I am still a long way from their craftsmanship, but I am persevering all the time to improve my skills. Perhaps because I didn't graduate from any goldsmith school and I learnt the craft myself, I am fascinated by the artistry of goldsmithing - I like to look at jewellery from the 18th and 19th centuries precisely in terms of the use of traditional and ancient techniques. We can learn a lot from books, but the decisive thing is really the years spent at the goldsmith's table experimenting - making attempts and learning from mistakes. I'm committed to making my jewellery better and better - excellent in terms of quality, beautiful in terms of design, but also increasingly... complex. Simple solutions don't interest me - when I'm designing a bracelet, I can't imagine not designing a clasp specifically for the design. At the same time, this clasp has to be perfect - even if it significantly increases the lead time. Coming up with technical solutions to make jewellery even more beautiful and at the same time more functional gives me great satisfaction. And solace - because I only achieve satisfaction when the design is perfectly executed. So it happens that several projects are waiting to be realised at the same time - until I find the best idea to overcome all the limitations encountered along the way. There is no expression in my vocabulary that says „can't” - I will keep on thinking and trying until „can”.
How was the award-winning „Nature is treasure” necklace created?
It also waited quite a long time to be realised. I had the shape of an amber stone in mind for a long time, but it was only approved after several grinding attempts. I dreamt of a light design for it, inspired by the architecture of Zaha Hadid, whose work I am delighted with - her deconstructivism even takes my breath away.
There is amber in all the designs.
Because I am from Gdańsk. When creating jewellery in Pomerania, you cannot escape amber. I try to show it in such a way that the recipient would want to buy a ring or a necklace not because it is with amber, but first and foremost because they are delighted with the jewellery - just as people are delighted with beautiful jewellery with diamonds, emeralds or other stones.
This is slowly happening - jewellery with amber is becoming more and more attractive in design and increasingly exclusive.
Indeed, there is a growing worldwide audience looking for jewellery that is different from that available on the market, one that would allow them to stand out. My jewellery with amber ideally meets these expectations - precisely because it is „different” in design and excellent in quality, while at the same time surprising with a stone in an often unobvious shape or colour. Among my clients are galleries specialising in gold jewellery with diamonds - they order silver jewellery with amber from me because it complements their offer perfectly. I also have individual clients for whom I combine amber with rubies, sapphires or diamonds in unique jewellery designs.
In the home market, however, this interest is not evident.
Unfortunately. There is a lot of talk in Poland about amber - especially recently - but not about modern jewellery, not about the wonderful achievements of Polish designers and producers. Instead, we are appreciated by foreigners - so jewellery with amber is bought in Poland mainly by foreign tourists, the vast majority of production goes to foreign markets. The pandemic has paralysed sales this season, so the situation for the entire amber industry is really difficult. I hope that we all manage to survive this difficult time. And I believe that since millions of people around the world have been buying amber jewellery so far, covid won't stop them from giving themselves this special pleasure once things get back to normal.
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