Americans are afraid of amber – a conversation with Barbara Westwood

Barbara Westwood, an American jewellery designer and special guest at the Amberif trade fair, shares her impressions of her stay in Poland and at the amber trade fair.

Interviews

Barbara Westwood, an American jewellery designer and special guest at the Amberif trade fair, shares her impressions from her stay in several Polish cities and at the largest amber trade fair.

You travelled to Poland with hazy preconceptions about our country. During your trip, you not only visited Gdańsk and Kraków, but also, among other places, you visited Nowa Huta with great interest. Where does this interest in such a topic stem from?

The very idea of travelling to Central Europe was incredibly exciting for me. My previous impressions of this part of the world included a visit to Berlin in 1969, when the wall was still standing – I crossed through Checkpoint Alpha, Beta and Charlie at that time. The differences between the two sides were stark. I was young and felt how provocative the situation was. For this reason, during my current visit, after the wall had been dismantled and communism had fallen, I felt as if time had come full circle.
To be perfectly honest, I didn't know what to expect from Poland, so I decided to simply open myself up to the experiences and feelings. I was very excited to be able to participate in the Amberif trade fair. During my visit to your country, I was treated as an equal and experienced great generosity and kindness. Everywhere I went, people were open and friendly. I spoke with Poles and tried to imagine how I would feel losing the freedom that is not appreciated in America. Krakow and Gdansk are completely different places – they allowed me to become somewhat acquainted with Polish culture, which is very rich and unlike what I know. I think Poles are quite original, not yet entirely touched by the commercialisation of life as in the West, and very authentic. I fell in love with Poland and its people. Here I could be myself, and I really enjoyed that. It was a magical experience, and I would like to return.

What did you like most about Poland?

Both my husband and I liked the people and culture the most. My only surprise was the train to Gdańsk (quite different from those in Western Europe...). I also bought some DVDs in Poland and was very disappointed that they didn't fit my player – I thought I would be able to study these films upon my return to make my trip around the country last longer.

Visitors to the Amberif trade fair did not get to see your amber jewellery collection featuring precious stones and gold, created especially for the occasion. Despite professional preparation and handling by a specialist transport company, it was stopped by customs officials in Warsaw. Would you like to comment on this?

We experienced an issue with customs clearance in Poland. We have analysed the situation and would like to share our observations: 1. Parcels should be sent as soon as possible if they are to be delivered by Brinks – the procedure takes approximately 3 weeks. 2. The Brinks service in Warsaw is very friendly, and the employees, having learned from our parcel’s experience, have promised to do their best to ensure such a problem does not happen again in the future. It seems this was due to excessive bureaucracy, but in the future, I will use the help of someone on-site to guide me through the complexities of local customs law. An investigation is ongoing into the carnets we were denied, so we are also curious to see how this matter will be resolved.

Do you think Poland is ready for such exclusive jewellery as Barbara Westwood's collection?

This is a very interesting point. As a designer of such jewellery, I can confidently say that many contemporary American artists are currently asking themselves the same question. The decisive factors when buying jewellery are primarily style and design. In the galleries I visited in Poland, style and design were paramount, and only then was the price discussed. In my opinion, it is beautiful pieces that can primarily impress a buyer. The level of craftsmanship and design in Poland is world-class; success can be learned.

In your opinion, how does the Amberif trade fair compare to other similar trade events?

Amberif has many advantages and looks favourable in this comparison. The Gdańsk event has an intimate character and is easy to navigate. The exhibitors know each other and create a fantastic community, both within the exhibition hall and outside – the accompanying events were full of familiar faces, which created an atmosphere of sharing not only jewellery but also life. The service at the fair was world-class, and the stands were interesting and individual enough that the exhibition wasn't monotonous. I really liked the art exhibitions on the first floor of hall 04. Truly good.

What are your impressions after watching the gala?

The gala was a very profound experience and should definitely be continued and developed. Not only was the scale of the undertaking amazing, but also the natural way jewellery was displayed – on the body. The designs, music, fashion – everything was subordinate to the theme of jewellery. Thanks to it, I have a wonderful picture of how Poles perceive jewellery. As I mentioned before, the craftsmanship and design of the jewellery presented at the gala were of a world-class standard. Polish design is unique and unrepeatable. Even the material used, amber, is very characteristic of your country. Being slightly different from everyone else is always difficult and associated with a certain apprehension – uniqueness and difference can be either an advantage or a weakness, depending on how you look at it. I consider it a big positive and something very exciting.

At the fair, you bought several beautiful pieces of amber. Does this mean you will continue the amber line? What did you discover in the amber?

I love the warmth and colour of amber. This prehistoric resin not only possesses beautiful form but also history – there were times when amber was king in the trading world. I love these stories about amber. The material is easy to work with and lightweight, allowing for the creation of substantial yet light jewellery, which is not possible with other stones that I use. I consider amber to be a very romantic material, and I think that is precisely why it fits so beautifully with my collection.

What do Americans know about amber? What could help them understand and appreciate it?

Americans don't understand modern amber. They fear it's fake and lack confidence when they can't identify it. The amber we see most often comes as cheap jewellery targeted at tourists. If diamonds were treated in a similar way, the effect would be the same. Poland's challenge is therefore to maintain stylistic distinctiveness and promote beautiful jewellery of increasing monetary value. That is, to continue what you are already trying to do – but this takes time and an internal understanding of amber's value. Americans are ready for it, you just need to help us recognise it. I would also emphasise amber's prehistoric roots and its rare occurrence and commercial value in ancient times. REMAIN ORIGINAL AND FOCUS ON FASHION.

Are you planning your next visit to Poland?

Yes! We will be going back there! Most likely in May 2010 I will have an exhibition in one of the galleries I contacted during the Amberif trade fair. And I would really like to show my jewellery in the Amber Museum in Gdańsk.

amber.com.pl presents previously unpublished photographs in Poland of Barbara Westwood's amber collection.

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