„Of Shadows” - Amber and shadow in jewellery by Fumiko Gotô

Japanese jewellery designer Fumiko Gotô, who worked as an architect and designer for more than 30 years, has been successfully creating art jewellery for several years. Her work combines Japanese aesthetics, architectural experience and a clear inspiration from nature. One of her most interesting designs is „Of Shadows”, in which she uses Baltic amber and black buffalo horn.

Competitions
Ofshadows eaf

The work was inspired by Jun'ichirō Tanizaki's essay „The Praise of Shadow”, a classic of Japanese essayism about the relationship between light and shadow. Gotô reaches for the theme in a very personal way, also referring to the form and structure of traditional Japanese yōkan sweets, which acquire depth, saturation and a new sensual dimension in twilight.  

In the work „Of Shadows”, amber symbolises the light and energy of nature, while buffalo horn symbolises shadow, background and depth. Both materials are natural and organic, which is significant for the artist - she sees them as symbols of the coexistence of the plant and animal worlds. Gotô's jewellery is firmly rooted in Japanese tradition, but made in a modern and conscious way - with great respect for the material and precision in the finish. 

Importantly, the artist makes her work by hand - she sculpts it herself, relying on both hand and mechanical tools. For Gotô, this is not only a creative process, but also a form of personal expression - quite different from the work of an architect, which requires a team effort. In jewellery, everything is up to her - from material decisions to form to proportions. 

In her designs, she often uses materials that refer to Japanese tradition - including polished black horn (reminiscent of black lacquer), mammoth tusk or amber. She used the latter extensively in her „Kumite ni Tsugite” series, treating it as a natural replacement for the ancient turtle carapace ornaments used in Japanese Kanzashi combs. 

The work „Of Shadows” was awarded the Grand Prix - Award of the Mayor of the City of Gdansk in the International Competition for the Design of Amber Jewellery Amberif Design Award 2025. This proves that Baltic amber is successfully transcending the boundaries of traditional jewellery making to become a full-fledged contemporary art material - carrying ideas, emotions and meanings understood by both Western and Eastern cultures.

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