I have tried several times in the past to qualify for the exhibition, but with so much competition at a very high level I only succeeded this year. Of the four works submitted, two from the „Still Life” collection depicting the remains of our comfortable lives qualified for the exhibition. Munich has built a very strong brand, today it is an important meeting place encapsulated by the numerous art and craft events that take place as part of Munich Fashion Week. An event attended annually by artists from all over the world as well as major galleries and well-known collectors. The Legnica SILVER Festival has a similar concept, but it is devoid of a commercial dimension. Besides, in Poland it would probably be difficult to build an event like the Munich one - many galleries offering high-quality artistic jewellery no longer exist, and the artists themselves are also not very active. I would dream of having more of us in Munich," concluded Arek Wolski.
SCHMUCK is one of the most important exhibitions promoting the author's goldsmithing art with the longest history in Europe (the other event of its kind is the Legnica SILVER Festival). It accompanies the International Handicrafts Fair (IHM) and strengthens Munich's position as the centre of contemporary goldsmithing art. Each year, the selection of works for the exhibition is made by a selected juror - this year it was Norman Weber, jewellery artist and artistic director of the State Vocational School of Jewellery and Glass in Neugablonz. Out of 600 entries, he selected more than 60 works by artists from 30 countries who present an interesting perspective on jewellery, showing it in different social, political or emotional contexts.
And so Chilean artist Yael Olave Munizaga has taken up the theme of upcycling in her work - a brooch made from recycled deodorant beads. The original origin of the material comes to the fore: her brooch initially resembles a futuristic landscape of sand dunes, with star-shaped hole patterns on the glossy white surface reminiscent of coral or sea urchin skeletons. Beneath the surface, balls in various shades of orange bulge out: it is here that the self, colourful and unique, hides. With her work, the artist refers to society's contradictory expectations of the individual: he or she is supposed to be perfect and unique, while being constantly compared and pigeonholed.
The chain pendants sewn from fabric by Hilde Dramstad from Norway, on the other hand, are a response to hidden fears. They are shaped like pistols, their fabric workmanship even arousing irritation. The small fringed flag features the figure of a talking cricket - Pinocchio's friend who was supposed to be watching over him, while being comically fearful himself, full of anxiety and terrified of the outside world. The artist asks the question about the role of fairy tales and films in our lives: while they allow us to experience difficult emotions without putting ourselves in danger, what does the experience matter if you can get out of a situation at any time?
Slovakian artist Peter Machata's scar brooch takes on the classic jewellery themes of identity and memory in a completely new way. We usually hide our scars under our clothes, but Machata glorifies them and highlights them with bright colours. The artist draws attention to pain, which also plays a role in shaping our personality and sometimes even saves our lives, as scars can be traces of important operations.
Herbert Hoffmann Award - Oscars of artistic jewellery
Of the works shortlisted for the SCHMUCK exhibition, an international jury composed of: Markus Eder - Danner Foundation, Prof. Karen Pontoppidan - Academy of Fine Arts Munich, Stefan Kraus - Columbus Museum Cologne, Andrea Mignucci - jewellery collector Padua / Costa Rica and QUEEN Lizzy - influencer, musician, activist, Munich / London awarded the following prizes:
Takayoshi Terajima
The portrait of the artist was created by artificial intelligence and changes every day - based on the last biographical information entered. The portrait was printed on aluminium and then - using traditional goldsmithing techniques, in particular engraving - a brooch was created. Associations with jewellery are also meant to be evoked by the sparkle alluding to precious stones, while the characteristic oval shape is reminiscent of old portraits. Interestingly, Takayoshi Terajima's portrait is only visible from certain perspectives, which further emphasises the mysterious and playful nature of the object.
The brooch was singled out for its perfect combination of impeccable workmanship, an aesthetic based on a clear focus on reduction to a few classical elements. His artistic involvement in the discussion of one of the most important issues in our society at the moment was also not insignificant: the impact of a technological revolution of almost historic proportions, which will challenge our societies more than any previous technological innovation. It is about the relationship between artificial intelligence and „creativity”, which is important for the future development of arts and crafts, but goes far beyond them, strongly influencing labour markets, business models and our lives in general.
Azin SoltaniThe second Herbert Hofmann Prize went to Iranian Azin Soltani. In the light of this work, the jury asked itself the fundamental question of what definition of quality we actually use when assessing jewellery. How much of an approach to life does the design of the small objects adorning our bodies take into account? How far can we go to express our innermost feelings through jewellery?
Artist Azin Soltani chooses the formal language of architecture to draw attention to the current situation of global uncertainty. Behind the classically placed brick is a view of revitalisation and a longing for colour that connects us all. We see the façade and we know: our lives are too often divided between the external and the internal.
EmparJuanes Sanchis
Under the artist's hand, the basalt softens, as if it escapes the physical properties attributed to it. Her works give the impression that no effort is needed to give form to the rock, as if it offered no resistance to reveal its natural beauty. Transforming itself, the matter of volcanic origin strives for elegance and acquires an unexpected dynamic. One gets the impression that the rock takes over the language of form, disregarding our formal thinking and ideas about its heaviness.
The Herbert Hoffman Award is also known as the Oscars of artistic jewellery. Herbert Hofmann was the initiator of the first international jewellery show at the International Crafts Fair in 1959.